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Book Notes: "Lady Rose's Daughter" by Mrs Humphrey Ward

Lady Rose's DaughterLady Rose's Daughter by Mary Augusta Ward

My rating: 3 of 5 stars


I decided to read this book because it was mentioned in an article on page 2 of the Goulburn Herald on 22 May 1903. I blogged about the article, which features my home town of Gunning, in October last year. It was the number one novel in the Publishers Weekly bestseller list in the United States for 1903. I understand that Mrs Humphrey Ward, as her use of her husband's name suggests, was an anti-suffragette. That the novel smacks of all things conservative does not take away from the brilliance of her work. I had some concerns over anachronisms in the novel, the plot clearly takes place after 1859, but is still regarded as being in the mid-nineteenth century by the characters, yet electric lights appeared in several scenes. Clearly the railway was a going concern. But after some research, I found that Punch magazine, which gets a number of guernseys in the novel, features the use of electric lights in London houses from as early as 1848 (Punch 1848, Vol. 15, p. 239), not to mention a satirical critique of electric lights (written by "a gas contractor"). Other reviewers have referred to Mrs Ward's "cardboard characters", and that may be true if one views the work as clichéd. However, one must remember that the book was written in 1903, over one hundred years before Downton Abbey, so Mrs Ward may be forgiven for being at the forefront of the re-imagining of Jane Austen in a mid-nineteenth century setting. If I am to take the background of the author into account, the novel is a victory for women who achieve success - when defined as social status and wealth - through their husbands, while at the same time winning a moral victory over the Sins of the Mother (a re-imagining of the proverbial). The pace of the novel was quite brisk, and I was captivated until the final forty or so pages, when the plot unfolds "like a long, slow accident" (Something for Kate's Stunt Show played over and over in my head as I read this part). The conclusion moved me and left me rather perplexed. It made be glad not to be a woman (in the Victorian sense of the word). And Mrs Humphrey Ward, brilliant as I find her work, in my imagination smiles smugly like a Liberal party member passing a lump of coal around parliament as history not only passes her by but would make her look silly if anyone else remembered her. But do read it - it is an excellent novel, even if the entire package serves as a caution for those who suffer from smug assuredness.



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Festival of Steam, Thirlmere, NSW, 5th March 2017

Locomotive 3642, built 1926. Preparing for the Thirlmere to Sydney trip, 5 March 2017.
I joined Transport Heritage NSW after a steam train came through Gunning last winter. We headed off this morning without umbrellas after looking at the 11% rain prediction on Google Weather. And then it began to pour.

By the time we got to Thirlmere, the rain had settled in. It was a bit of a walk from where we parked to the entrance. But we were lucky enough to buy reasonably priced umbrellas at the markets and, once I was sure my camera and my bag were all fine, the atmosphere of the festival started to work its magic on me.

The weather was a real downer. It was horrible. We wanted to visit the potter on the main stretch of the festival, but the footpath was a flowing creek that was impassable. Had the weather been fine, this would have been one of the best festivals I have been to in regional Australia. Hopefully next year it will be better, because I will be going back.

We had planned on driving to Picton for lunch, but the rain threw a spanner in the works. The festival was in full swing despite the rain, and we treated ourselves to a "Spartan Yiros", a Greek sandwich, from one of the many food stalls. It was delicious. Food included Korean, Turkish, Danish, and Asian, and there were stores selling model trains and clothes and all sorts of things.

There was a real vibe. Despite the rain, quite a few people turned out in their steam-punk finery. And the sound of steam engines and whistles amid old-timey music kept our spirits up as we headed towards the displays.

At the entrance, the Blues Preachers were playing. These guys didn't stop the whole time we were there and they were great. I love old-timey mountain music and they have the look and sound down pat. I bought two of their albums, Dead Catz Can Bounce and Dry So Long. The Blues Preachers completed a weekend of great music for us. We listened to it all the way home in the car.


As we entered the pavilion at Trainworks, we were greeted by a display of "steam train art". I bought a couple of postcards depicting steam trains in historical Australian settings. There were reasonably priced prints and some original oil paintings for sale. Check out www.steamtrainart.com.au if this style of art is your thing. I particularly liked the fly-fishing scenes.

Locomotive 2705 at Thirlmere Station
The highlight of the trip was the steam train ride to Buxton. Locomotive 2705 did the honours to Buxton (about 9km away), and the trailing diesel electric brought us back. The carriages were period six seaters in all their faded glory.

It took about 40 minutes or so for the round trip, but nobody really noticed. Despite the rain, every train trip at the festival was sold out. Spectators lined the track all the way along the route to take photos and wave as the lucky passengers rolled on by.

Click play below to hear the 2705's steam whistle.


There were other steam engines on display, including a model train setup with fully functioning, small-scale (shoebox size) steam engines, work trucks, showbags and show rides for children, in addition to the permanent collection at Trainworks.

There were a handful of classic work vehicles on display
If you missed the festival but are interested in what is happening in this space, there is an online exhibition from Transport Heritage NSW, and don't forget the National Film and Sound Archive's Public Transport online collection.

If the weather had been good, this would easily have been the best festival in regional Australia. I hope the effort for next year's festival remains undiminished, as I intend to be there again.

But book your ticket for the Festival of Steam early if you want to take a ride on the steam train. And if you are an enthusiast, support a worthy heritage project and join Transport Heritage NSW.

Part of the permanent collection at Thirlmere

Travel Notes: Paris, 10-13 September 2007

Moulin Rouge, Pigalle
On a trip to Glasgow for a conference in 2007, we did a whirlwind tour of London and Paris. Using Wotif, we took a mystery package in London, but we were deliberate in choosing our hotel in Paris. 

Atlanta Frochet Hotel, Pigalle
We stayed at the Atlanta Frochot Hotel on 9 rue Frochot in Pigalle, just up the road from the Moulin Rouge.

It was not the best time to be in Paris. The Rubgy World Cup was on at the same time, and there was a huge football suspended in the middle of the Eiffel Tower. It was a bit like rocking up to see the Sydney Opera House for the first time and someone had wrapped it in a Best & Less flanny shirt.

The noise of rugby revelers was endless, and, at times, walking around Pigalle late at night was disappointing, as it was full of either zombie-like or aggressive drunks.

To put things in perspective, when we hired a boat on the lake in Hyde Park in London, a South African worker there noticed my accent and started talking about the rugby. When I told him I couldn't care less about rugby, he seemed deflated and said I was the only Australian he had ever met who didn't care about the rugby. So not the ideal time to be in Paris, but aside from the noise, we were focused on the other highlights.
Mona Lisa, smaller than I expected!

Arc de Triomphe
But the hotel was quaint, and suited our student budget. The hotel was renamed Le Pigalle recently. It appears to have gone all hipster but it was mostly quaint and old-worldly when we were there.

I have recreated parts of the journey from my scrapbook of receipts, museum maps, bus and train tickets, and business cards, because my diary stops abruptly on 4th September in Glasgow, misses London, and commences again on 12th September.

That's because, on arriving in Glasgow, we faced a spot of illness, some lost luggage, and then turned up at the conference about 5 minutes before my wife's unannounced but rescheduled presentation was to begin.

I pick up the diary notes from here.

L'église de la Madeleine, Paris
Paris, Monday 10th September 2007

Fly to Paris. Moulin Rouge [too expensive so we walked past it], pizza [from La Scuderia Del Mulino]  organised the open top, hop-on, hop-off bus, ate at a sidewalk cafe, did the yellow then green routes [bus sightseeing routes around Paris]. I recall a furphy that if you walked around late at night, the bouncers at the various seedy joints would force you into their club and then make you pay the cover charge. A bit like razor blades in the soap at high school. We never had any soap at high school, and I never saw any bouncers.

Paris, Tuesday 11th September 2007

Arc de Triomphe, Metro, boat trip [Seine], Notre-Dame. I am sure on this day we went to the Musee d'Orsay and saw From Cezanne to Picasso: Masterpieces from the Vollard Gallery. One exhibition included black and white film footage of the various artists (it may have been the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, but I recall we went to other smaller places, too.
Eiffel Tower, with football

Paris, Wednesday 12th September 2007

Visit Louvre. We woke with the alarm at 7am and after much consternation decided to visit the Louvre first. We entered with our Paris Museum Pass. For some reason, we walked all the way there (2.7km) - we were too early for the first bus at 0930. I had a pastry breakfast at the hotel. [My wife] waited until we found the bakery and had brioche and we both had a chocolate eclair. The perfect eclair remains elusive, but these were close - the chocolate custard seems to spoil it. Another boat trip, Musee de Orsay, coffee at Notre Dame, another bus trip, Arc de Triomphe. I bought MacDonalds. [My wife] had eaten goats cheese and crackers and then felt unwell. I watched BBC until falling asleep. The pillows were hopeless! At about 3am we woke to the sound of the Scottish [rugby fans] singing - it was later evident that they won something in the soccer as well as the rugby. A while later, we were woken by the sound of bagpipes again.

View from Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
Paris, Thursday 13th September 2007

Venus de Milo, Louvre
We woke after 0900 and spent time packing so we didn't have problems with the luggage again [like having clean underwear in one's carry-on]. The one bag rule was ludicrous - there needs to be consistency! [At the time, depending on the airline and the route, you could either have one large bag or two smaller bags, and changing airlines often messed up one's luggage]. We walked about after leaving our luggage at the hotel to find somewhere to eat. A while past the Moulin Rouge we saw a little bistro in a quiet street but the service was crap so we left the menus sitting on the table and found somewhere on the main road. This place was owned by a Christian Lebanese [man and] we were looked after well. We paid €50 (a tip of €5). We walked back to the hotel and ordered a taxi. My wife's bag had almost disintegrated and we were both too tired to walk. The taxi was going to cost €10-15, but [the Moroccan taxi driver] said he would take us [all the way] to the airport for €35... The aeroplane was delayed, what a f***ing surprise.
Eiffel Tower, Paris

The whole trip was a blur, but the diary doesn't show how much we saw or how much walking we did. But my scrapbook shows we went to the following:
Arc de Triomphe, Paris
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